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The 3-2-1 Backup Strategy

Post Syndicated from original https://backblaze.com/blog/the-3-2-1-backup-strategy/

A lot has changed since the 3-2-1 backup rule was first introduced in the late aughts. At the time, the iPad was just a glimmer in Apple’s eye. Facebook had a quaint 500 million users. Taylor Swift had only released two albums. Blockbuster Video still existed, and Netflix shipped DVDs to your door. 

Unlike most things in technology, the rule has held up over the years. It’s still the de facto standard for keeping your data safe. But some of the particular best practices have evolved as data storage has changed. Today, I’ll explain the 3-2-1 rule, what’s changed, and how you can easily achieve a 3-2-1 backup to keep your data safe and protected.

What Is the 3-2-1 Backup Rule?

The 3-2-1 backup rule is a simple, effective strategy for keeping your data safe. It advises that you keep three copies of your data on two different media with one copy off-site. Let’s break that down:

  • Three copies of your data: Your three copies include your original or production data plus two more copies.
  • On two different media: You should store your data on two different forms of media. This means something different today than it did in the late 2000s. I’ll talk a little more about this in a bit.
  • One copy off-site: You should keep one copy of your data off-site in a remote location, ideally more than a few miles away from your other two copies.

If you want to protect your personal information, photos, work files, or other important data, the 3-2-1 backup strategy is the way to go. It helps you avoid having a single point of failure that’s vulnerable to human error, hard drive crashes, theft, natural disasters, or ransomware.

How Does the 3-2-1 Backup Rule Work?

Let’s say you took a picture of your social security card for your tax accountant years ago—that file is called “socialsecurity.jpg” and it lives on your computer at home. That’s the first “copy” of your data.

You also have an external hard drive at home, used to back up your go-to Mac or gaming PC.  That external hard drive will back up socialsecurity.jpg as part of its backup process. That’s a second copy on a different device or medium.

In addition to that external hard drive, you also have an online backup solution (we recommend Backblaze; go figure!). The online backup continuously scans your computer and uploads your data to the cloud (which, in layman’s terms, is an off-site data center). Socialsecurity.jpg is included in this upload, becoming the third copy of your data.

Oh! And, your paper social security card is hopefully stored in a fire-proof safe (not your wallet) as a bonus. 

What’s Changed About the 3-2-1 Backup Strategy?

When the 3-2-1 rule was first introduced, there were a lot more types of media to choose from when storing your data—the humble floppy disk, CDs, Blu-ray discs, USB sticks, external hard disk drives (HDD), solid state drives (SSD), network attached storage (NAS), tape libraries, etc. Some of those have fallen out of favor (CDs and DVDs, I’m looking at you).

Some types of media are not practical or affordable for a typical home computer user looking to back up their data (tape libraries, for example). Some of the technologies were prohibitively expensive back then, but are much more affordable now (SSDs). And one big one wasn’t mainstream yet: The Cloud™ (you might have heard it referred to as “other people’s computers”). So, what does this mean for the 3-2-1 backup strategy? Do you still need to keep your data on two different media?

Two Different Media, Really?

The short answer is: yes, but no. Today, you don’t need to keep your data on two different types of media, but you do need to keep your data on two different devices. 

The long answer is a bit more complicated. There are a couple reasons folks recommended keeping your data on two different types of media in the first place. One, it protects you from one of those forms of media becoming obsolete in the face of new storage technology (still looking at you, CDs) and your data becoming unreadable. And two, it’s wise to keep your backup copy on a separate device so that a hardware failure doesn’t take out both local copies. For example, if your computer all of the sudden doesn’t want to hold a charge, you can still recover data from your hard drive.

While obsolescence is always a concern, the advent of cloud storage for backups all but eliminates it. The cloud service provider is responsible for maintaining the physical storage devices and keeping your data accessible at all times. So, if you use a cloud backup service, you only need to worry about keeping your data on two devices, not two separate kinds of media. What does that look like? 

The Easiest 3-2-1 Backup

If you back up your home computer to an external hard drive and back both of those devices up to the cloud using something like Backblaze Computer Backup, congratulations: You have achieved a 3-2-1 backup. 

  • You have three copies of your data: One on your computer, one on your hard drive, and one in the cloud.
  • You store your data on two different devices: Your computer and your external hard drive. (Technically, three devices, since your data is also stored in the cloud).
  • One of those copies is off-site: The cloud copy.

Is the 3-2-1 Strategy Still the Standard?

If you aren’t backing up at all, achieving a 3-2-1 backup strategy is still the best thing you can do to protect your data. But, the 3-2-1 rule is becoming more of a starting point rather than the finish line in today’s world. 

The rise in ransomware attacks calls for strengthening the basic principles of the 3-2-1 strategy—redundancy, geographic distance, and access—with added protections. Cybercrimes targeting networked machines and capturing all data, including backups, is a growing problem.

New versions of the tried-and-true backup strategy have emerged, such as the 3-2-1-1-0 or 4-3-2 backups. Sounds like overkill? It isn’t. The good news is that companies like Backblaze exist to make at least the off-site component less stressful—we do the work and keep up with security best practices for you.

Why Do I Need Both an On-Site and an Off-Site Backup?

Whether you are interested in backing up a Mac or a PC, an on-site backup is a simple way to access your data quickly should anything happen to your computer. If your laptop or desktop’s hard drive crashes, and you have an up-to-date external hard drive available, you can quickly get most of your data back or use the external drive on another computer while yours gets fixed or replaced. If you remember to keep that external hard drive fairly up to date, the exposure for data loss is negligible, as you might only lose the uncopied files on your laptop. Most external hard drives even come with software to ensure they’re readily updated.

Having an on-site backup is a great start, but having an off-site backup is a key component in having a complete backup strategy, including cloud storage. The newer backup strategies build on the cloud’s strengths:

  • Convenience: Backing up large volumes of data in the cloud is fast.
  • Durability and reliability: Your data is protected against fires, natural disasters, and more.
  • Collaboration: Sharing with permissions is intuitive and effortless in the cloud.

Is the 3-2-1 Backup Rule Perfect?

There is no such thing as a perfect backup system, but the 3-2-1 approach is a great start for most people and businesses. Even the United States government recommends this approach. In a 2012 paper for the United States Computer Emergency Readiness Team (US-CERT), Carnegie Mellon recommended the 3-2-1 method in their publication: Data Backup Options.

Backing Up Is the Best Insurance

The 3-2-1 plan is great for getting your files backed up. If you view the strategy like an insurance policy, you want one that provides the coverage needed should the unthinkable happen. Service also matters; having a local, off-site, and offline backup gives you more options for backup recovery.

Backblaze Backup in 3-2-1…

While Backblaze can’t help with power outages, computer encryption, or anti-theft technologies (though we can locate a computer), we can help make backing up your files a no-brainer. And (at least to our most recent survey) with only 11% of respondents who own a computer backing up daily, folks need the help!

Getting started with Computer Backup for your personal or business computers helps take care of that crucial “1” in your complete 3-2-1 backup strategy. And, with our included one year Version History feature (or Forever Version History if you want to upgrade), you have additional layers of protection should anything happen to your physical devices.

The post The 3-2-1 Backup Strategy appeared first on Backblaze Blog | Cloud Storage & Cloud Backup

Getting Rid of Your PC? Here’s How to Wipe a Windows SSD or Hard Drive

Post Syndicated from Molly Clancy original https://www.backblaze.com/blog/how-to-wipe-pc-ssd-or-hard-drive/

A decorative image showing a PC and a hard drive over a cloud.

Do you have an old PC lying around that you’d love to throw away or donate? Before you take it to the recycling center, you definitely want to scrub it of all your data. And there’s a bit more to it than just deleting your files and emptying the recycle bin. 

This guide will help you make sure all of your personal data is wiped from the machine so you can be confident it’s all gone before you give it away or recycle it. 

First things first: Back up your computer

Before you do anything, make sure your data is backed up. You want to be able to load it all on to a new computer, or at least keep it in an archive, so you can access it after you dispose of your old machine. The best plan for backing anything up is the 3-2-1 backup strategy where you keep three copies of your data on two types of media with one copy off-site. Your first copy is the one on your computer. Your second copy can be kept on an external hard drive or other external media. And, your third copy should be kept in an off-site location like the cloud. If you’re not backing up an off-site copy, now is a great time to get started.

You can easily create a backup using Windows Backup on Windows 7, 8, 8.1, 10, and 11. If you save that to an external hard drive, you can then move your files to a new computer or just keep it as a local backup. Once you’re backed up, you’re ready to wipe your PC’s internal hard drive.

How to completely wipe a PC

In most cases, wiping a PC involves simply reformatting the disk and reinstalling Windows using the Reset function. If you are recycling, donating, or selling your PC, the Reset function makes data recovery sufficiently difficult, especially if your data is encrypted (more on that later). This process is straightforward in Windows versions 8, 8.1, 10, and 11, and works for both hard disk drives (HDDs) and solid state drives (SSDs).

How to reset Windows 10 and 11

Follow these instructions for different versions of Windows to reset your PC:

  1. Go to SettingsSystem (In Windows 10: Update & Security) → Recovery.
  2. Under Reset this PC, click Reset PC. (In Windows 10: Click Get Started.)
  3. Choose Remove everything. If you’re not getting rid of your PC, you can use Keep my files to give your computer a good cleaning to improve performance.
  4. You will be prompted to choose to reinstall Windows via Cloud download or Local reinstall. If you’re feeling generous and want to give your PC’s next owner a fresh version of Windows, choose Cloud download. This will use internet data. If you’re planning to recycle your PC, Local reinstall works just fine.
  5. In Additional settings, click Change settings and toggle Clean data to on. This takes longer, but it’s the most secure option.
  6. Click Reset to start the process.

How to reset Windows 8 and 8.1

  1. Go to SettingsChange PC SettingsUpdate and RecoveryRecovery.
  2. Under Remove everything and reinstall Windows, click Get started, then click Next.
  3. Select Fully clean the drive. This takes longer, but it’s the most secure option.
  4. Click Reset to start the process.

Secure erase using third-party tools

If the reset option doesn’t totally put your mind at ease, or if you have a PC running Windows 7 or older, you have another option—third-party tools. There are a number of good third-party tools you can use to securely erase your disk, which we’ll get into below. These are different depending on whether you have an internal HDD or an SSD.

How do I find out I have an HDD or SSD in my Windows laptop?

Most desktops and laptops sold in the last few years will have an SSD, but you can easily check to be sure:

  1. Open Settings.
  2. Type “Defragment” in the search bar.
  3. Click on Defragment and Optimize Your Drives.
  4. Check the media type of your drive.

How to securely erase your Windows drive using third-party tools

Now that you know what kind of drive you have, here are your options for wiping your Windows drive:

Securely erase an HDD

The process for erasing an HDD involves overwriting the data, and there are many utilities out there to do it yourself:

  1. DBAN: Short for Darik’s Boot and Nuke, DBAN has been around for years and is a well-known and trusted drive wipe utility for HDDs. It does multiple pass rewrites (binary ones and zeros) on the disk. You’ll need to download it to a USB drive and run it from there.
  2. Disk Wipe: Disk Wipe is another free utility that does multiple rewrites of binary data. You can choose from a number of different methods for overwriting your disk. Disk Wipe is also portable, so you don’t need to install it to use it.
  3. Eraser: Eraser is also free to use. It gives you the most control over how you erase your disk. Like Disk Wipe, you can choose from different methods that include varying numbers of rewrites, or you can define your own.

Keep in mind, any disk erase utility that does multiple rewrites is going to take quite a while to complete.

If you’re using Windows 7 or older and you’re just looking to recycle your PC, you can stop here. If you intend to sell or donate your PC, you’ll need the original installation discs (yes, that’s discs with a “c”…remember? Those round shiny things?) to reinstall a fresh version of Windows.

Don’t worry. You can still make use of those discs.

Securely erase an SSD

You have a few options for securely erasing an SSD. These third-party tools will do the trick:

  1. Parted Magic: Parted Magic is the most regularly recommended third-party erase tool for SSDs, but it does cost $11. It’s a bootable tool like some of the HDD erase tools—you have to download it to a USB drive and run it from there.
  2. ATA Secure Erase: ATA Secure Erase is a command that basically shocks your SSD. It uses a voltage spike to flush stored electrons. While this sounds damaging (and it does cause some wear), it’s perfectly safe. It doesn’t overwrite the data like other secure erase tools, so there’s actually less damage done to the SSD.

Encrypting data on a Windows PC

Even if you’re not getting rid of your computer, encrypting your data is a good idea. If your laptop falls into the wrong hands, encryption makes it that much harder for criminals to access your personal information. But, if you have an SSD, encrypting your data is even more important, both before you get rid of it and just in general. Why? The way SSDs store and retrieve data is different from HDDs.

HDDs store data at specific physical locations on the drive platter. In contrast, SSDs use electronic circuits and memory cells, which are organized into pages and blocks, to store data. Constant writing and rewriting to the same blocks can wear out an SSD over time. To mitigate this, SSDs employ a technique called “wear leveling,” which distributes data across the entire drive, preventing it from being stored in just one physical location.

When you tell an SSD to erase data, it doesn’t overwrite the existing data. Instead, it writes new data to a different block. Consequently, some of your old data may remain on the SSD until the wear leveling process eventually overwrites those cells. So, it’s smart to encrypt your data before erasing it from an SSD. This ensures that any residual data is protected. If any data is left lurking, at least no one will be able to read it without an encryption key.

Encrypting your data first isn’t necessarily a requirement, but if Windows Reset is not enough for you and you’ve come this far, we figure it’s a step you’d want to take. The process isn’t complicated, but not every Windows machine is the same. First, check to see if your device is encrypted by default:

  1. Open the Start menu.
  2. Scroll to the Windows Administrative Tools dropdown menu.
  3. Select System Information. You can also search for “system information” in the taskbar.
  4. If the Device Encryption Support value is “Meets prerequisites,” you’re good to go—encryption is enabled on your device.

If not, your next step is to check if your device has BitLocker built in:

  1. Open Settings.
  2. Type “BitLocker” in the search bar.
  3. Click Manage BitLocker.
  4. Click Turn on BitLocker and follow the prompts.

If neither of those options are available, you can use third-party software to encrypt your internal SSD. VeraCrypt and AxCrypt are both good options. Just remember to record the encryption passcode somewhere and also the operating system (OS), OS version, and the encryption tool you used so you can recover the files later on if desired.

The nuclear option

Encrypting, resetting, and/or wiping your drive with a third-party tool should be more than enough to make sure your data is protected and your laptop or desktop is clean before you donate or recycle it. But maybe you’re still feeling wary about it. In that case, you always have the option to destroy the drive yourself.

When nothing less than total destruction will do, just make sure you do it safely. The safest and most secure way to destroy an HDD, and the only way we’d recommend physically destroying an SSD, is to shred it. Check with your local electronics recycling center to see if they have a shredder you can use. (And, you absolutely want to ask if you can watch as giant metal gears chomp down on your drive. Metal.) Shredding it should be a last resort though. Drives typically last five to 10 years, and millions get shredded every year before the end of their useful life. 

If you have a megabot ready to go, you should first crush, then shred your drives.

Still have questions about how to securely erase or destroy your hard drives? Let us know in the comments. And if you’re curious about how to erase a Mac HDD or SSD, read our guide here.

FAQs

How do I wipe a PC?

In most cases, wiping a PC involves simply reformatting the disk and reinstalling Windows using the Reset function. If you are recycling, donating, or selling your PC, the Reset function makes data recovery sufficiently difficult, especially if your data is encrypted. You can also use third-party tools to securely wipe a PC drive.

How do I encrypt data on a PC drive?

First, check to see if your device is encrypted by default. You can search “system information” in the search bar. If the Device Encryption Support value is “Meets prerequisites,” you’re good to go—encryption is enabled on your device. If not, your next step is to check if your device has BitLocker built in. Type “BitLocker” in the search bar, click Manage BitLocker, then click Turn on BitLocker and follow the prompts. If neither of those options are available, you can use third-party software to encrypt your internal SSD. VeraCrypt and AxCrypt are both good options.

How do I safely dispose of an SSD or HDD myself?

The safest and most secure way to destroy an HDD, and the only way we’d recommend physically destroying an SSD, is to shred it. Check with your local electronics recycling center to see if they have a shredder you can use (or if they’ll at least let you watch as giant metal gears chomp down on your drive). Shredding it should be a last resort though. Drives typically last five to 10 years, and millions get shredded every year before the end of their useful life. 

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