Post Syndicated from Andy Klein original https://www.backblaze.com/blog/ssd-upgrade-guide/

Solid-state drives (SSDs) have become the norm for most laptops and desktops, replacing the older hard disk drives (HDDs) that had been in use for decades previously. If your computer still relies on an HDD, it might be time to consider upgrading to an SSD for improved performance.

Upgrading to an SSD can give your computer a significant speed and responsiveness boost, especially if your machine is more than a few years old. However, before taking the plunge, it’s essential to weigh practical considerations. Let’s take a closer look at SSDs and the factors you should consider.

What Is an SSD?

An SSD is a type of data storage device used in computers and other electronic devices. Unlike traditional HDDs, which use spinning disks and mechanical read/write heads to store and retrieve data, SSDs rely on NAND-based flash memory to store information. This flash memory is similar to the kind used in USB drives and memory cards, but it’s optimized for higher performance and reliability.

Compared to HDDs, SSDs are more shock resistant (due to their lack of moving parts) and are less likely to be affected by magnetic fields. They also offer faster data access times, quicker boot-up and application load times, and better overall responsiveness. 

For more about the differences between HDDs and SSDs, check out Hard Disk Drive vs. Solid State Drive: What’s the Diff? or our two-part series, HDD vs. SSD: What Does the Future for Storage Hold?.

Why Upgrade to an SSD?

Because of their speed and efficiency, SSDs have become the preferred choice for many computing applications, ranging from laptops and desktops to servers and data centers. They are especially useful in situations where speed and reliability are crucial, such as in gaming, content creation, and tasks involving large data transfers. Despite typically offering less storage capacity compared to HDDs of similar cost, SSD performance benefits often outweigh the storage trade-off, making them a popular choice.

Depending on the task at hand, SSDs can be up to 10 times faster than their HDD counterparts. Replacing your hard drive with an SSD is one of the best things you can do to dramatically improve the performance of your older computer.

Without any moving parts, SSDs operate more quietly, more efficiently, and with fewer breakable things than hard drives that have spinning platters. Read and write speeds for SSDs are much better than hard drives, resulting in noticeably faster operations.

For you, that means less time waiting for stuff to happen. An SSD is worth looking into if you’re frequently seeing a spinning wheel cursor on your computer screen. Modern operating systems rely more on virtual memory management, utilizing temporary swap files that are written to the disk. A faster SSD minimizes the performance impact caused by this process.

If you have just one drive in your laptop or desktop, you could replace an HDD or small SSD with a 1TB SSD for less than $40. For those dealing with substantial amounts of data, concentrating on replacing the drive that houses your operating system and applications can yield a significant speed boost. Put your working data on additional internal or external hard drives, and you’re ready to tackle a mountain of photos, videos, or supersized databases. Just be sure to implement a backup plan to make sure you keep a copy of that data safe on additional local drives, network attached drives, or in the cloud.

Are There Any Reasons Not to Upgrade to an SSD?

If SSDs are so much better than hard drives, why aren’t all drives SSDs? The two biggest reasons are cost and capacity. SSDs are more expensive than hard drives. A 1TB SSD or HDD now cost about the same, $30–$50, with HDDs being slightly less, maybe around $25. 

That’s not much of a difference, but as drive capacity gets larger, the cost differential gets increasingly larger. For example, an 8TB HDD drive runs $120–$180, while 8TB SSDs start at around $350. In short, while upgrading the 1TB internal hard drive on your computer to an SSD is cost effective, the same may not be true for replacing larger capacity drives, like those used in external drives, unless the increased speed is worth the increased cost.

Whether your computer can use an SSD is another question. It all depends on the computer’s age and how it was designed. Let’s take a look at that question next.

How Do You Upgrade to an SSD?

Does your computer use a regular off-the-shelf SATA HDD? If so, you can upgrade it with an SSD. 

SSDs are compatible with both Macs and PCs. All current Mac laptops come with SSDs. Both iMacs and Mac Pros come with SSDs as well. Around 2010, Apple started moving to only SSD storage on most of its devices. That said, some Mac desktop computers continued to offer the option of both SSD and HDD storage until 2020, a setup they called a Fusion Drive. 

Note that as of November 2021, Apple does not offer any Macs with a Fusion Drive. Basically, if you bought your device before 2010 or you have a desktop computer from 2021 or earlier, there’s a chance you may be using an HDD.

Determine Your Disk Type in a Mac

To determine what kind of drive your Mac uses, click on the Apple menu and select About This Mac. 

Avoid the pitfall of selecting the Storage tab in the top menu. What you’ll find is that the default name of your drive is “Macintosh HD” which is confusing, given that they’re referring to the internal storage of the computer as a hard drive when (in most cases), your drive is an SSD. While you can find information about your drive on this screen, we prefer the method that provides maximum clarity. 

So, on the Overview screen, click System Report. Bonus: You’ll also see what type of processor you have and your macOS version (which will be useful later).

Once there, select the Storage tab, then the volume name you want to identify. You should see a line called Medium Type, which will tell you what kind of drive you have. 

Determine Your Disk Type in a PC

To determine your disk type in a Windows PC, first open the Task Manager in Windows:

1. Right-click the Start button and click Run. In the Run Command window, type dfrgui and click OK.

2. On the next screen, the type of drive will be listed under the Media Type column.

Can I Upgrade to a Better SSD?

Even if your computer already has an SSD, you may be able to upgrade it with a larger, faster SSD model. Besides SATA-based hard drive replacements, some later model PCs can be upgraded with M.2 SSDs, which look more like RAM chips than hard drives. 

Some Apple laptops made before 2016 that already shipped with SSDs can be upgraded with larger ones. However, you will need to upgrade to a Mac-specific SSD. Check Other World Computing and Transcend to find ones designed to work. Apple laptop models made after 2016 have SSDs soldered to the motherboard, so you’re stuck with what you have.

How to Install an SSD

If you’re comfortable tinkering with your computer’s guts, upgrading it with an SSD is a pretty common do-it-yourself project. Many companies offer hassle-free plug-and-play SSD replacements. Check out Amazon or NewEgg and you’ll have an embarrassment of riches. The choice is yours: Samsung, SanDisk, Crucial, and Toshiba are all popular SSD makers. There are many others, too.

However, if computer hardware isn’t your forte, it might not be worth the effort to learn from scratch. SSD upgrades are such a common aftermarket improvement most independent computer repair and service specialists will take on the task if you’re willing to pay them. Some throw in a data transfer if you’re lucky, or a skilled negotiator. Ask your friends and colleagues for recommendations. You can also hit up services like Angi to find someone.

If you are DIY inclined, YouTube has tons of walkthroughs like this one for desktop PCs, this one for laptops, and this one aimed at Mac users.

Many SSDs replace 2.5 inch HDDs. Those are the same drives you find in laptop computers and even small desktop models. Have a desktop computer that uses a 3.5 inch hard drive? You may need to use a 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch mounting adapter.

A Word on SSD Compatibility

Beyond the drive size, it’s a good idea to check to see if the SSD you want to buy is compatible with your laptop or desktop, especially if your system is older than a couple of years. Here are articles from Tom’s Hardware and ShareUs which can help with that.

How to Migrate to an SSD

Buying a replacement SSD is the first step. Moving your data onto the SSD is the next step. To achieve this, you need two essential components: cloning software and an external drive case, sled, or enclosure. These tools enable you to connect your SSD to your computer through its USB port or another data transfer interface.

Cloning software creates an exact replica of your internal hard drive’s data. Once this data is successfully migrated to the SSD, you can then insert the new drive into your computer. I prefer to clone a hard drive onto an SSD whenever possible. When executed correctly, a cloned SSD retains its bootable capabilities, providing a true plug-and-play experience. Just copying files between the two drives instead may not copy all the data you need to get the computer to boot with the new drive.

How to Clone a Hard Drive to an SSD

When you buy a new SSD or even a fresh hard drive, it’s unlikely that the operating system you need will be pre-installed. Cloning your existing hard drive fixes that. However, there are instances where this may not be feasible. For example, maybe you’ve installed the SSD in a computer that previously had a bad hard drive. If so, you can do what’s called a clean install and start fresh. Different operating system providers offer distinct guidelines for this procedure. Here’s a link to Microsoft’s clean install procedure, and Apple’s clean install instructions.

As we said at the outset, SSDs tend to come at a higher cost per gigabyte compared to traditional hard drives. You may not be able to afford as large an SSD as your current drive, so make sure your data will fit on your new drive. If it won’t, you might have to pare down first. Additionally, it’s wise to leave some room for expansion. The last thing you want to do is immediately max out your new, fast drive.

Now that you’ve successfully cloned your drive and integrated the SSD into your system, what do you do with the old drive? If it’s still functional, repurposing the external drive chassis utilized during migration is a practical option. It can continue to serve as a standalone external drive or become part of a disk array, such as a network attached storage (NAS) device. You can use it for local back up—something we strongly recommend doing—in addition to using cloud back up like Backblaze. Or, just use it for extra storage needs, like for your photos or music.

Make Sure to Back Up

SSD upgrades are commonplace, but that doesn’t mean things don’t go wrong that can stop you dead in your tracks. If your computer is working fine before the SSD upgrade, make sure you have a complete backup of your computer to restore from in the event something goes wrong.

More Questions About SSDs?

You might enjoy reading other posts in our SSD 101 series.

The post SSD 101: How to Upgrade Your Computer With an SSD appeared first on Backblaze Blog | Cloud Storage & Cloud Backup.

Post Syndicated from Stephanie Doyle original https://www.backblaze.com/blog/how-to-wipe-a-mac-hard-drive/

Your faithful Mac has served you well for years, but it’s time to upgrade. Whether you’re selling it, giving it to a friend, donating it, or recycling it, you first need to make sure all of your personal data is wiped clean. 

In this guide, we’ll take you through the process step-by-step, from backing up your files to encrypting your data, so you can make sure your private information stays private.

Before you do anything else, back up

Once you wipe your Mac, you won’t be able to access the data from your drive. Before you get started, you’ll want to make sure any important data on your hard drive has been backed up. Apple has a built-in backup utility called Time Machine backup software. 

While Time Machine is a good start, it doesn’t fulfill all of the requirements of a 3-2-1 backup strategy: When you set up Time Machine backups, you choose a backup disk (an external drive or network attached storage (NAS) device) that you can save your backups to. Under the 3-2-1 backup rule (three backups, on two media types, with one off-site), that means you’d still need an off-site copy of your data, preferably saved in the cloud. Ideally, you’d pair Time Machine with a product like Backblaze Computer Backup for maximum flexibility. Note that even though backups run nearly continuously with Backblaze Computer Backup, we recommend hitting the manual backup button before you wipe your Mac to ensure you’ve got the most recent information.

Mac operating systems (OSes) and processing chips: Figuring out what you have

The process for wiping your Mac depends on a couple things: 

• What OS version you’re rocking
• What kind of processing chip you have

Fortunately, Apple has only made it easier to wipe your computer as the years and operating systems have rolled out. If you’re using macOS Monterey or later with an Apple-based processor chip, it’s very simple—you have the option to wipe your Mac from the System Settings. 

What macOS do I have?

You can see your current OS in the About This Mac screen (from the Apple menu in the upper-left corner of your screen, choose About This Mac), and below is a list of all OS releases you can compare against. You can also check out the Apple Help article on the topic. 

What kind of processing chip do I have in my Mac?

The second variable you need to know is what kind of processing chip you have in your Mac—an Apple-based chip (Apple M-series) or an Intel chip.

In November 2020, Apple launched its first Macs equipped with M1 chips, replacing the Intel-based processors of the past. The evolution of the M-series Apple chips has been notable largely for performance enhancements, but given that (at the time of publishing) this was four years ago, there’s a good chance that many users will have an Intel processor. 

To see what kind of chip you have, follow the same instructions as above—go to your Apple menu and select About This Mac. If you have an M-series chip, you’ll see that listed as marked in the screenshot below.

If you have an Intel-based Mac, you will see Processor, followed by the name of an Intel processor.

How to wipe your Mac

Okay, so now that you know your operating system and processing chip, we can get to the actual how-to of how to wipe your Mac. The steps will be slightly different based on each of the above variables. Let’s dig in. 

Wipe a Mac with an Apple chip and a recent macOS update

If you have macOS Monterey or later with an Apple chip, then you’re going to wipe your Mac using the Erase All Content and Settings function. (You might also see this called the Erase Assistant in Apple’s Help articles.) This will delete all your data, including iCloud and Apple logins, Apple wallet information, Bluetooth pairings, fingerprint sensor profiles, and Find My Mac settings, as well as resetting your Mac to factory settings. Here’s how you find it. 

If you have macOS Ventura or Sonoma: 

1. Select the Apple menu.
2. Choose System Settings. 
3. Click General in the sidebar. 
4. Click Transfer or Reset on the right. 

If you have macOS Monterey:

1. Select the Apple Menu. 
2. Choose System Preferences. 

Once the System Preferences window is open, select the dropdown menu in your top navigation bar. Then, select Erase All Content and Settings.

Once you’ve reached this point, then the steps will be the same for each process. Here’s what to expect. 

1. You’ll be prompted to log in with your administrator credentials. 
2. Next, you will be reminded to back up via Time Machine. Remember that if you choose this option, you’ll want to back up to an external device—because, of course, you’re about to get rid of all the data stored on this computer. 
3. Click Continue to allow all your settings, data, accounts, etc. to be removed.

4. If you’re asked to sign out of Apple ID, enter your Apple password and hit Continue. 
5. Click Erase all Content & Settings to confirm. 

6. Your Mac will automatically restart. If you have an accessory like a Bluetooth keyboard, you’ll be prompted to reconnect that device. 
7. Select a WiFi network or attach a network cable. 
8. After joining a network, your Mac activates. Click Restart. 
9. After your device has restarted, a setup assistant will launch (just like when you first got your Mac). 

It’ll be pretty clear if you don’t meet the conditions to erase your drive using this method because you won’t see Erase All Content and Settings on the System Settings we showed you above. So, here are instructions for the other methods. 

How to wipe a Mac with an Apple chip using Disk Utility

Disk Utility is exactly what it sounds like: a Mac system application that helps you to manage your various storage volumes. You’d use it to manage storage if you have additional storage volumes, like a NAS or external hard drive; to set up a partition on your drive; to create a disk image (basically, a backup); or to simply give your disks a check up if they’re acting funky. 

You can access Disk Utility at any time by selecting Finder > Go > Utilities, but you can also trigger Disk Utility on startup as outlined below. 

1. Turn on your Mac and continue to press and hold the power button until the startup options window comes up. Click Options, then click Continue.
2. You may be prompted to log in with either your administrative password or your Apple ID.
3. When the Utilities window appears, select Disk Utility and hit Continue.

4. If you’d previously added other drives to your startup disk, click the delete volume button (–) to erase them. 
5. Then, choose Macintosh HD in the sidebar. 
6. Click the Erase button, then select a file system format and enter a name for it. For Macs with an M1 chip, your option for a file system format is only Apple File System (APFS).
7. Click Erase or, if it’s an option, Erase Volume Group. You may be asked for your Apple ID at this point. 
8. You’ll be prompted to confirm your choice, then your computer will restart. 
9. Just as in the other steps, when the computer restarts, it will attempt to activate by connecting to WiFi or asking you to attach a network cable. 
10. After it activates, select Exit to Recovery Utilities. 

Once it’s done, the Mac’s hard drive will be clean as a whistle and ready for its next adventure: a fresh installation of the macOS, being donated to a relative or a local charity, or just sent to an e-waste facility. Of course, you can still drill a hole in your disk or smash it with a sledgehammer if it makes you happy, but now you know how to wipe the data from your old computer with much less ruckus.

How to wipe a Mac with an Intel Processor using Disk Utility

Last but not least, let’s talk about how to wipe an Intel-based Mac. 

1. Starting with your Mac turned off, press the power button, then immediately hold down the command (⌘) and R keys and wait until the Apple logo appears. This will launch macOS Recovery. 
2. You may be prompted to log in with an administrator account password. 
3. When the Recovery window appears, select Disk Utility.
4. In the sidebar, choose Macintosh HD.
5. Click the Erase button, then select a file system format and enter a name for it. Your options for a file system format include APFS, which is the file system used by macOS 10.13 or later, and macOS Extended, which is the file system used by macOS 10.12 or earlier.
6. Click Erase or Erase Volume Group. You may be prompted to provide your Apple ID. 
7. If you previously used Disk Utility to add other storage volumes, you can erase them individually using the process above. 
8. When you’ve deleted all your drives, quit Disk Utility to return to the utilities window. You may also choose to restart your computer at this point. 

Do you still need to know what kind of drive you have?

Wiping your Mac used to depend on what kind of drive you had—a hard disk drive (HDD) or solid state drive (SSD). As we’ve outlined above, today, the process depends on your OS and the type of chip you have. But some of you may have very old Macs you want to get rid of. Here we’ll talk a bit about HDDs vs SSDs and the impact that has on how you erase your computer. 

Around 2010, Apple started moving to only SSD storage in many of its devices. That said, some Mac desktop computers continued to offer the option of both SSD and HDD storage until 2020, a setup they called a Fusion Drive. The Fusion Drive is not to be confused with flash storage, a term that refers to the internal storage that holds your readily available and most accessed data at lower power settings. 

Note that as of November 2021, Apple does not offer any Macs with a Fusion Drive. Basically, if you bought your device before 2010 or you have a desktop computer from 2021 or earlier, there’s a chance you may be using an HDD. 

So, what kind of drive do you have?

To determine what kind of drive your Mac uses, click on the Apple menu and select About This Mac. 

Avoid the pitfall of selecting the Storage tab in the top menu. What you’ll find is that the default name of your drive is “Macintosh HD” which is confusing, given that they’re referring to the internal storage of the computer as a hard drive when (in most cases), your drive is an SSD. While you can find information about your drive on this screen, we prefer the method that provides maximum clarity. 

So, on the Overview screen, click System Report. Bonus: You’ll also see what type of processor you have and your macOS version (which will be useful later). 

Once there, select the Storage tab, then the volume name you want to identify. You should see a line called Medium Type, which will tell you what kind of drive you have.

Securely erasing drives: Questions and considerations

Some of you drive experts out there might remember that there is some nuance to security when it comes to erasing drives, and that there are differences in erasing HDDs versus SSDs. Without detouring into why and how that’s the case, just know that on Fusion Drives or Intel-based Macs, you may see additional security options you can enable when erasing HDDs. 

There are four options in the “Security Options” slider. “Fastest” is quick but insecure—data could potentially be rebuilt using a file recovery app. Moving that slider to the right introduces progressively more secure erasing. Disk Utility’s most secure level erases the information used to access the files on your disk, then writes zeros across the disk surface seven times to help remove any trace of what was there. This setting conforms to the DoD 5220.22-M specification. Bear in mind that the more secure method you select, the longer it will take. The most secure methods can add hours to the process. For peace of mind, we suggest choosing the most secure option to erase your hard drive. You can always start the process in the evening and let it run overnight.

After the process is complete, restart your Mac and see if you can find any data. A quick inspection is not foolproof, but it can provide some peace of mind that the process finished without an interruption. 

Securely erasing SSDs and why not to

If your Mac comes equipped with an SSD, Apple’s Disk Utility software won’t actually let you zero the drive. Sounds strange, right? Apple’s online Knowledge Base explains that secure erase options are not available in Disk Utility for SSDs.

Fortunately, you are not restricted to using the standard erasure option to protect yourself. Instead, you can use FileVault, a capability built into the operating system.

Encrypting your computer with FileVault

FileVault is an excellent option to protect all of the data on a Mac SSD with encryption. FileVault is whole-disk encryption for the Mac. With FileVault engaged, you need a password to access the information on your hard drive. Even without it, your data is encrypted and it would be very difficult for anybody else to access.

Before you use FileVault, there is a crucial downside. If you lose your password or the encryption key, your data may be gone for good! 

When you first set up a new Mac, you’re given the option of turning FileVault on. If you don’t do it then, you can turn on FileVault at any time by clicking on your Mac’s System Preferences, clicking on Security & Privacy, and selecting the FileVault tab. Be warned, however, that the initial encryption process can take hours, as will decryption if you ever need to turn FileVault off.

With FileVault turned on, you can restart your Mac into its Recovery System following the directions above and erase your hard drive using Disk Utility, once you’ve unlocked it (by selecting the disk, clicking the File menu, and clicking Unlock). That deletes the FileVault key, which means any data on the drive is useless.

Nowadays, most Macs manage disk encryption through the T2 chip and its Secure Enclave, which is entirely separate from the main computer itself. This is why FileVault has no CPU overhead—it’s all handled by the T2 chip. Although FileVault doesn’t impact the performance of most modern Macs, we’d suggest only using it if your Mac has an SSD, not a conventional HDD.

Securely erasing free space on your SSD

If you don’t want to take Apple’s word for it, if you’re not using FileVault, or if you just want to, there is a way to securely erase free space on your SSD. It’s a little more involved, but it works. Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let me state for the record that this really isn’t necessary to do, which is why Apple’s made it so hard to do.

To delete all data from an SSD on an Apple computer, use Apple’s Terminal app. Terminal provides you with command line interface (CLI) access to the OS X operating system. Terminal lives in the Utilities folder, but you can access Terminal from the Mac’s Recovery System. Once your Mac has booted into the Recovery partition, click the Utilities menu and launch Terminal.

From a Terminal command line, type the following:

diskutil secureErase freespace VALUE /Volumes/DRIVE

That tells your Mac to securely erase the free space on your SSD. You’ll need to change value to a number between 0 and 4. Zero is a single-pass run of zeroes, 1 is a single-pass run of random numbers, 2 is a seven-pass erase, 3 is a 35-pass erase. Finally, level 4 is a three-pass erase with random fills plus a final zero fill. drive should be changed to the name of your hard drive. To run a seven-pass erase of your SSD drive in JohnB-MacBook, you would enter the following:

diskutil secureErase freespace 2 /Volumes/JohnB-MacBook

Note that while Mac’s Terminal typically uses forward slashes ( / ), if you have a space in the name of your hard drive, you’ll see a backslash ( \ ) to indicate that break in syntax. (So “Macintosh HD” becomes /Macintosh\ HD.) For example, to run a 35-pass erase on a hard drive called Macintosh HD, enter the following:

diskutil secureErase freespace 3 /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD

If you’re like the majority of computer users, you’ve never opened your Terminal application—and that’s probably a good thing. If you’re providing the proper instructions, a CLI lets you directly edit the guts of your computer. If you’re not providing the proper instructions, things will just error out, and likely you won’t know why. 

In conclusion, in most cases, it’s simple to wipe your Mac hard drive

All this to say: Apple has made specific choices about designing products for folks who aren’t computer experts, and in most cases, you won’t need to break out the CLI knowledge to securely erase your hard drive. While Mac sometimes limits how customizable you can get on your device (i.e. it’s super hard to zero out an SSD), it’s usually for good reason—in this case, it’s to preserve the health of your drive in the long term. So, if you personally are planning to reuse the device you’re wiping, or if you’re not being targeted in a real-life James Bond movie, in most instances, it’s a less-than-ten step process to securely wipe your Mac and send it on to a new, shiny future. 

FAQ

The post Guide to How to Wipe a Mac or Macbook Clean appeared first on Backblaze Blog | Cloud Storage & Cloud Backup